What to Eat on Chilly Summer Nights

Plus a rosé I've been enjoying lately.

Baked butter chicken, before the glorious sauce. Recipe below.

It’s been unseasonably cold this past week in Toronto.

To wit: I’m inside, wearing jeans and a light sweater, as I write this. Yesterday I wore a scarf. And not wrapped around my head as I rode in a convertible along the Lakeshore. Around my neck. For warmth. In June.

(Don’t worry, Monday is allegedly going to be 30°C, and the summer forecast predicts July, August, and September will be hell’s-front-porch hot, so a cooling calm before the heatwave is fine by me.)

But the chilly, grey, damp does throw a bit of a quagmire into the hosting situation. We’ve just come out of a long season of boeuf bourguignon and duck confit; I’m not in the mood to return to it so soon. Yet, greeting my guests in thick socks and snuggly sweats, I need something heartier than ceviche and lobster rolls.  

My view of sky, as it’s been for the last week.

I’ve had friends over a few times this week, and facing this cold summer dilemma, I Googled, “what to eat on chilly summer nights.” Frankly the responses were underwhelming, and pretty much a complete miss, as Google offered up pages of chilled foods for sweltering summer nights. Perhaps it was user error. Google can’t be wrong.

I suppose a roast chicken is always appropriate, no matter the season. I love this recipe I wrote for The Wine Sisters’ blog (though, these days, I’m prone to breaking down the chicken before roasting; it cooks quicker and saves my fingers from blistering whilst trying to carve a steaming roast.)  

Meatballs are another year-round option. And one sunny, but comfortably cool night, I served the hummus starter from last week’s Weekender (if you missed it, the post is linked below), and meatballs with tomato sauce (recipe also available on thewinesisters.com) After much trial and error, this is the meatball recipe I have settled on as my go-to. It’s comforting and delicious and welcoming. And it freezes really well: make a big batch, as I do, and you’ve got decent dinners ready in no time – company or not.

Ricotta gnocchi with tomato sauce and mascarpone

With a big batch of tomato sauce already prepared, I offered up ricotta gnocchi another evening. I’ve had a few debates with some chefs I work with who insist ricotta gnocchi is not real gnocchi. I whole-heartedly disagree, but I’m a lover, not a fighter, so I usually just take a big swig of my wine and change the subject.

This ricotta gnocchi is also my go-to recipe, and it also freezes really well, so I usually make big batches of it as well for fast lunches and last-minute dinner parties. I did learn at my cooking school in Umbria to use up the flour, even when you think you can’t. Put your back into it and really work it in there. The gnocchi will be better for it in the end.

A few years ago, I took a tremendous Indian cooking course that changed my kitchen – and spice cupboard – forever.

I lean into Indian dishes more in the winter, when I need the warmth of spices to fortify me. But a cool summer’s eve is equally appropriate, so butter chicken has rolled back into the rotation (it’s also really great on the barbecue). You do need a day’s notice, preferably, as it’s best when the marinade soaks into the meat for a full 24 hours, but if you have last(ish) minute visitors, you can get away with preparing the chicken in the morning and cooking that evening.

Ironically, it’s this lengthy marinade time that makes butter chicken perfect for a dinner party meal. It must be done in advance, so all the work is fait accompli before friends darken your door.

Butter chicken with jeera pulao and a boat load of cilantro

I am a creature of habit and general enthusiast of, “if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it,” so I make the menu exactly how it was laid out for Indian Cooking, Class 2: with jeera pulao (basmati rice with cumin), and onion paratha (a griddled flat bread). I also am occasionally inclined to add a cucumber salad.

WINE TO DRINK WITH BUTTER CHICKEN:

Butter chicken is deeply flavourful with spice but is not fiery hot. True to its namesake, the sauce has loads of butter and cream, so pair with a white wine of equal substance. A rich, Alsatian Pinot Gris, which has a silky texture and stone fruit flavours works particularly well. For red wine lovers, Chianti’s bright acid is a classic match for tomato-based sauces.

Butter Chicken

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PS –

In anticipation of summer weather returning next week, I’ll leave you with a terrific rosé I’ve been enjoying lately. (A reminder I’m based in Toronto, Canada, so pricing and availability may change depending on where in the world you are.)

Château Val-Joanis Rosé 2023, Luberon, Provence, France $19.95 #707281

This wine is a head turner. Impressively flavourful, yet dry with taut acidity, there’s a lot of interest in the glass. I’ve purchased (yes, purchased) three bottles thus far, and have no intention of stopping anytime soon.

Luberon is one of the places I note when looking for quality pink, and I generally find it in this pretty little piece of Provence (just north of Aix.) A blend of Grenache and Syrah, this has all the red berry notes you would want. A terrific pairing with loads of food flexibility including for spicy shrimp and chorizo (pictured above), tuna tartare, salad Niçoise, or brie and turkey burgers.

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xo – Erin